Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair?

African American girls in particular, as early as elementary school, are wearing alternative hair, tight braids and twists, again, that put undue stress on the hair and scalp. While this may serve as an enhancer and provide lifestyle convenience, it has been reported that by their early twenties, permanent hair loss is evident. This forces the use of wigs and weaves. Given the evidence above, this is certainly avoidable and, as a longtime professional in the industry, I strongly encourage caution and consult with a professional periodically when used with children. Please reference my previously written article on how synthetic fibers cause hair damage.

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Alopecia is one of the hair losses that is, in most instances, irreversible. In some cases, one can minimize the damage of the condition. Lifestyle changes in diet and reducing particular stresses on the scalp, such as hair additions, medication and chemicals can be an aid in further damage. Though, family history must be taken into consideration when diagnosing this condition.

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Alopecia

Alopecia Areata is baldness in spots about the size of a quarter that can manifest throughout the head. This type of hair loss is internal and happens when the immune system attacks hair follicles, which is  where the hair starts to grow. (WebMD.com)   Fortunately, the condition is not permanent in 90% of cases.

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Alopecia Areata

Any type of stress, such as divorce, nervousness, etc. has the ability to choke the blood supply and minimize nerve connection. As a result, the hair ceases to grow properly. The hair is ‘fed’ by blood vessels at the base of the follicle, which gives it the nourishment it needs to grow. (Viviscal.com) Once relieved of the stress factors, the nerve endings and blood supply return to normal, thus producing a better surface to grow the hair. Black-Woman-Washing-Hair-1050x700

The catagen period is when the hair is in its regressive phase in which hair is released from underneath the scalp with a white round bulb, at the follicle. New hair will be replaced, however. This happens at least once a year, not to be mistaken with daily shedding, which is 75 to 85 strands of hair per day. This is normal. Keep in mind that hair grows daily. 

Chemical abuse manifests in several ways. Each of the following has an overall affect on whether the hair is produced or not…  

1. Prescription drugs have bee links to having an affect on hair growth. Prior to taking, have a discussion with your doctor. Cancer treatments, weight loss drugs and other medications can prevent hair growth and spark hair loss.

 2. Illegal drugs, as cocaine and heroine, research shows this can also damage hair.

Overall abuse, head-related injuries, and tension on the hair and scalp due to pulling excessively and continuous braiding, twisting and consistent use of wigs and hair weaving have long term effects. The immediate appearance can certainly enhance and improve one’s self-image but over time, can be connected to permanent hair loss. Unfortunately, there is little education for consumers when it comes to long-term use of these alternative hair additions. Hair weaves or additions were never meant to improve or enhance the natural growth process of your hair. They are only temporary styling aids. To further address any concerns, consult your local hair care professional. I am also available to address your health and beauty needs via replies to this article or email me at eeub143@aol.com.

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What You Should Know About Kiddie Perms

Is there really a difference in kiddie and adult perms? This is a question posed outside of girl perm processthe industry. However, for those of us in the beauty industry, the answer is no secret.

Kiddie perms are essentially permanent relaxers that require continuous maintenance much like any other chemical service. Once the hair has received a so-called kiddie perm, the adult that applies it should assume responsibility for shampooing, conditioning and protecting the hair that is no longer virginal.

The misunderstanding about the words ‘kiddie perm’ takes on the connotation that it is different from what we know as an adult perm. The word itself is an abbreviation of ‘permanent,’ which indicates the hair will require additional products in order for it to feel and look healthy. Constant use of moisturizers with a blend of protein are necessary in order to maintain this balance of healthy hair.children hair perm

The term kiddie perm is a marketing term used to sway the consumer to feel as if the product does not have the ability to damage the hair. However, what consumers must understand is that once the product has been applied to the hair, it permanently changes the hair shaft.

girl with relaxed hairThe active ingredients in most permanent relaxers or so-called kiddie perms are some form of hydroxide. The most popular are sodium, calcium, guanidine and lithium hydroxides.  All of these share one common goal and that is to remove curls, in which bonds must be  permanently broken in order to achieve change in the hair texture. This procedure cannot be reversed with the use of any known product. That’s why it’s called permanent.

We must understand that packaging is a part of what sells the product. Therefore, what you see on store shelves branding a relaxer for children does not mean it’s safer or less damaging to the hair.

A-List salons do not use kiddie perms. They well understand that what’s seen on packaging is marketing and the product cannot guarantee safety and desired results.

When it comes to chemically altering children’s hair, you should consult a licensed professional. Discuss maintenance, frequency of salon visits and time needed to commit to maintaining a healthy mane. For questions, please contact me at eeub143@gmail.com.

Thank you for visiting. Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Does Wearing Weave Damage Your Hair?

I have been a hair stylist for more than 25 years. My experience has allowed me the opportunity to teach and work with many applications of hairstyling. This includes weaving hair.outre-first-lady-weaving-hair

After years of research and talking to colleagues in the business from around the world, it is unanimous that sew-in weave methods work well with most hair types. We all agree to stay away from bonding, as this also results in some form of alopecia or baldness in certain areas of the scalp. I highly caution you.

When you are considering wearing weaved hair, always have it done by a professional; someone who will provide you with a truthful hair analysis.

It is always in your best interest to be aware of the importance of maintaining a healthy condition to your hair, be it natural or chemically treated, while wearing hair weave. For best results, always use the better quality of hair for the most natural look. In most cases, when going for a natural look, less is best when it comes to the amount of hair used. Many people make the mistake of adding too much hair.

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Maintenance is very important in keeping a beautiful style, as well as a healthy scalp. Shampooing and conditioning frequently is very important. A visit to your stylist every two to four weeks for grooming and refreshing your weave is of the utmost importance. In order to properly treat the scalp and hair, the weave should be fully removed every two months. For more information on this subject, contact your professional hair stylist or myself, at eeub143@gmail.com.

 

When Cutting Your Hair Becomes a Necessity

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There are many opinions about how often we should cut our hair. The old standard says every six weeks is best for healthy hair. People in the fashion industry say twice a year is standard. Some even say phases of the moon is the best way to determine when the hair is to be cut. However, I want to give you an insider on the truth.

How Long Will a Cut Support a Style? 

If Hair Is Not Trimmed Frequently, Will It Take a Toll on Your Hair?   

As an expert stylist and educator, hairstyles like bobs, bangs and tapered looks will probably require cutting every three weeks to maintain its polished look. I base this on the fact that hair usually grows 1/2 inch per month. Such preciseness for these particular looks, this is necessary.

If your hair is treated with color, relaxers, or thermal styling tools, a minimum of 8 weeks is needed to maintain the health of your hair. If your hair is natural, with no present chemicals, this will vary, depending on your hairstyle.

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There is no one answer to fit everyone, as we are all different. You must find the sweet spots that is perfect for you. When you have questions as to when is the best time to get your hair cut, there are two important factors to consider:

  • When you can no longer achieve the hairstyle you desire.
  • When the ends of your hair is visibly damaged.

For more information, contact your personal stylist. You may contact me as well at eeub143@aol.com.

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How Do You Make Your Gray Hair Work For You?

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In my many years in the industry of cosmetology, some call it hair dressing and hairstyling. Repeatedly, I get questions about gray hair: How do I prevent getting it? When will I get it? Why isn’t it gray all over? How can I color my hair gray? These are questions that many of us face, both women and men. In my research, this is what I have discovered…
There are cells in our hair follicles called “melanocytes”, which generate pigments, the main ones being melanin. This gives our hair “color”. In most cases, the more melanin that is present, the darker the hair color. The less melanin, the lighter the hair color. Whenever these melanocytes stops producing, the result is transparent hair, that is gray. The transparent hair against your dark healthier hair gives the appearance of gray hair.
One way to deal with your gray hair is to alter your look with a new and exciting hair cut. This keeps you fresh and can give you a sense of sex appeal.
eeSome choose to recapture the once natural color, which oftentimes, dates the individual, while others opt to change the shape of their hairstyle. This can reveal a new and exciting individual. There are few processes used to create this. The most successful ones are done under the care of a trained colorist. Maintaining your new look is an ongoing process, such as permanent hair coloring, foiling, low lights and highlights and dimming hair color products. For best results, transitioning does not happen overnight. It is a process that takes time with a dedicated professional. For more on this topic, you may email me at eeub143@gmail.com.

Caring for Locs and Twists

There are various styles of locs and twists that appear to be carefree. Dreadlocks don’t need to be brushed and require very little to no trimming. While otherlocs hairstyles require combing to put hair back in place, tucking the hair back into the dreads is part of the maintenance routine. Contrary to some people’s belief, clean dreads lock up and tighten faster than dirty, soiled locs.

Most people who wear this style notice their locs look better when proper maintenance of cleaning and palm-rolling/latching is a part of their styling routine.

If your stylist is not maintaining your look, it is your job to keep them twisted. Caring for your twists requires routine maintenance that involve shampooing and conditioning, re-twisting before bed at night depending on the style and moisturizer to help control the twists. Leave-in conditioners are essential when wearing twists. This controls frizzes and holds hair together for a smooth, coil twist. twists

In order to get the desired style when your hair is twisted, a haircut will provide a foundation for the shape and silhouette that will support twists.

The product selection is far too large to name one that will fit your type and texture of hair.  To minimize buying unnecessary products, you should purchase your products from a hair care professional who specializes in these kinds of looks. Always remember to protect your beautiful tresses, be it locs or twists, by avoiding cotton pillow cases or other products that will absorb moisturizers when sleeping. Silk or satin are highly recommended. For more information, contact me.

 

 

How Often Should You Shampoo Your Hair?

There are many opinions on the frequency of shampooing. However, at the core of it all, the frequency will vary from one person to another.

There are a few considerations that will determine how often you should shampoo your hair. This can vary from genetics, physical exercise, exposure to chemicals, diet, as well as stressful conditions. All hair produces a natural oil called sebum. Shampoo is an emulsifier that captures and traps excess oil, dirt, and product residue, which you then rinse out to clean the hair. Image result for salon retail

Experts say there’s no single answer to how often people should shampoo. You may not need to do it as often as you think. It usually comes down to personal preference. For guidance, take a look at your hair type and styling choices. Hair care professionals have been trained to identify shampoos for your specific type of hair and styling preferences. Purchasing shampoo from your stylist or salon offers the necessary support if you have questions how they best work.

 

For more information, visit a professional hair care salon.